At the last update, I had briefly left the trail at Fontana Dam to complete a different kind of walk back in Auburn:
A long journey in and of itself.
Fortunately, my four days off the trail happened to coincide with a terrible winter storm in Great Smoky Mountains National Park (GSMNT). As I caught up with my trail family over the past week, I heard many harrowing accounts of the life-threatening conditions they faced. Thru-hikers at this time of the year are simply not equipped to deal with sub-freezing temperatures, snow accumulation, and gale force winds!! I’m happy that everyone made it out ok, and I feel quite lucky that my own journey through the Smokys was blessed with exceptionally good weather!
I left Fontana Dam (Mile 165) on Monday afternoon, making the long climb up into the Smokys to Mollies Ridge Shelter (Mile 177).
Fontana Dam, NC
Fontana Dam, NC
Getting back on the trail after four days off was more difficult than I anticipated. Actually it reminded me a lot of coming back to jiu jitsu after a few weeks off. Where did all my cardio go???
One thing I noticed immediately about the Smokys was that the deer are fearless. I had several encounters with deer using the trail which ended with awkward staring contests until the deer decided to let me pass.
You. Shall. Not. Pass.
Northbound, the AT passes first over tall, somewhat rounded mountains that become increasingly jagged and steep throughout the Smokys.
Shelters in GSMNT are typically three-sided stone structures with two levels for sleeping. All of the shelters I encountered had tarps covering their open side and build-in internal fireplaces. The Smokys get COLD at night! Shelter use is mandatory along this section of the AT unless the shelter is full. Since I dislike shelters and the weather was amicable, I tried to put in some extra miles to arrive after the shelters were full.
Double Spring Gap Shelter (Mile 196.4) was practically a scene from a Disney movie. Just prior to this point, the forest transitioned from deciduous trees to pine forest. Evening sunlight filtered through the pine trees and about a dozen deer browsed around the shelter.
Double Spring Gap Shelter
Dining with the deer
The next morning I reached Clingman’s Dome, the highest point on the AT and a major tourist attraction. It was fun chatting with the inquisitive dayhikers, although I did receive a few more “Bless your heart” responses than I would like (Note for my Yankee readers: this southern expression is NOT as kind as it sounds!).
Observation Tower at Clingman’s Dome
The pine forest immediately after Clingman’s was absolutely stunning. Anyone who knows me knows that I have an obsession with macro photos of moss… I probably took over a hundred moss photos in this section. I will spare you though.
Ok just one!!!
After spending the evening at Icewater Spring Shelter (Mile 209.8), I woke up early the next morning to enjoy another tourist favorite, this time without the crowds. Charlies Bunion is a large rock outcropping with stunning views. Had it all to myself!
Early morning at Charlie’s Bunion
View from Charlie’s Bunion
A long day brought me to Cosby Knob Shelter (229.6) where the presence of a ridge runner required me to actually stay in the shelter. This ended up working well as it rained hard that evening. I spent the morning hustling down out of the Smokys, determined to make it all the way through without getting rained on in the upcoming showers.
Made it through the Smokys without a single drop of rain actually hitting me!!
A stormy forecast and the waning battery life of my phone and GPS convinced me to stay the evening at Standing Bear Hostel, just outside the Smokys.
I am currently in Hot Springs, NC (Mile 273.4). The rest of my journey here (and beyond) will have to wait until I get to Erwin, TN on Friday or so because it’s time to GET HIKING!!!
Sorry for the rushed update, it’s hard to cover a week’s worth of trail, much less the gorgeous Smokys.